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February 24, 2020Kampala has over 53 historical buildings but the most beautiful and interesting one is the Bwanga house, said to be the oldest building in Kampala City, Uganda’s Capital City. Situated within Zalwango zone in Kasubi, off the Hoima road is Bwanga house, part of the magnificent Kasubi Royal Tombs and is said to be King (Kabaka’s) Mwanga first house before he eventually became the King of Buganda Kingdom in 1884.
This house was constructed in the late 1880s by the young Prince Mwanga as his homestead and is comprised of 10 rooms. However, the first structure was grass-thatched but when he became the Kabaka in 1884, he was required by culture to build a Palace hence the reason he relocated to Masaja where his first Palace referred as “Mukulutatamakaage” (locally translated as the elder of the hole doesn’t abandon it). However, the built Palace did not stand the test of time and he abandoned it to construct the current Twekobe Place in Mengo.
At first, when the Kabaka went to Masaja, the house was left to Basenero, the chief brewer of the King and the Palace. During the challenging and turbulent period of his reign, King Mwanga never returned to the area until when he passed away during exile.
However, when the decision to return his remains was reached, the grass-thatched house was renovated in 1910 in preparation for the return and burial of his body. The current structure you will find was finally completed in 1919 but from that time, it was never revamped until after the return of Kabaka Mutesa from exile in 1955.
The walls of the house were eventually plastered and painted while the floor cemented on Kabaka Mutesa’s orders. One of the interesting things that stand out about this building is its exceptional architecture and when you visit the area, you will be marvelled by the Kiganda version of ceiling known as “Okusisila”.
This ceiling is comprised of palm poles (locally known as Enkoma), reed and grass mixed with mud and with this extraordinary ceiling, the house remains cool at all times regardless of the weather. Even when iron sheets were put in 1919, they have stood the test of time and never leak even now.
However, with the high rate of development in Kampala City, the structure and the surrounding areas are losing meaning. For instance, the road that was meant for people to stand and bow when the King passed is now covered by new houses and the rituals that used to be important are now no more.
Worse still, the main compound of the original five-acre Palace is currently used as a car park while at the extreme end stands some public toilets and showers and the backyard, as well as other old structures that were once used as Mwanga’s private courtyard, are now used as malwa brewing ground. Also because of the large size, some rooms were rented out to some people and the verandah is now used as a tailoring workshop.